Content Security HDCP/Netflux/Firmware/DTV…

Useless Security


We are living is a smart world… after the year 2000 we went so digital and life in a very shiny world of security. Why the Hack nobody of the security company’s secure the content against leaking information’s ?

After the HDCP Ver. 2.X and the downgrade to 1.4 to record digital content from Amazon and Netflix. I spend multiple time to investigate the problems. The Result is clear, there is no security. It´s possible to infect such as the DTV API and IPTV stuff like Netflix without spending much time.

dtv dtvcas hdcp

No wonder if you can see the HDCP API and you can ROOT the SMART TV. You have mostly full access to all files and data. It depends if there are OTP Chips like Broadcom or ST. But most of the used IC´s are MTK China ARM´s that are pretty easy to dump.


Major problem

The firmware for Smart TV´s is AES encrypted.  For example all Key´s for LG televion´s are known. That means people can hijack the Netflix API. Same for all used DRM and CI+ restrictions. Poor security….. You get what you pay…. poor Security, poor DRM and modified equipment that support´s more and more piracy such as KODI or Cardsharing support. I wish Chuck Norris give a roundhouse kick to all the major security company’s and the development staff.

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CAS Security Part III

16C magic is now public

We remember the posting:

The tiny AT45 flash that has the magic for the E-CWPK. It took nearly 1 1/2 years that the people on the public notice the Block 16C that is inside the poor flash.

Nothing has changed so far.  You get what you pay a bollocks security. I will focus how long it takes to decrypt the E-CWPK and finaly is in public hand. I know that a few have already found what they needed to decrypt it. Just a lack of time new Magic CI Modules will join the market and bypass the restrictions of the „overcrypt“ for the Control Word.

Please, next time spend 50 Cent more , to prevent it.

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MC68000PX rubbish :)

China the World of counterfight stuff…….


Check the Mask Code….  naa dont waste time… fake

Polish down the real brand…. and do a new brand on it….

Sombody tryed to hide the real brand 🙂

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C64 Development

Iám so sorry, that i can´t do any development for C64 or 128.

If you want to support me, send me a C64 🙂 Then i can do some stuff.

Use the CONTACT for detail´s.

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Amiga Audio DSP

Teaser: Amiga DSP with 2×1,8W

Status: Prototyping

Iám working on a Audio DSP for generic use. But i wanted to use it on my old A500.

Hope to get it done Q2 2018

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AMIGA Video Hybrid AVH Replacement

Amiga Video Hybrid DAC AVH

Today arrived the Amiga 500 Video Hybrid Replacement. Soon available….!!!

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First at all you need to flash the Bootloader if you are using a Mini-Pro Clone.

German Tutorial:

English Tutorial:

and you need the Firmware that can be found here

After all you can add your FTDI UART to USB and use the Software.

Watch out that you need at least 7,5V DC to run the PCB, if you run more Voltage like 12V the 7805 regulator is getting hot, do not forget to add a Heatsink.

Normally ypu don’t need 12V for the most Floppy Drives,  5V+ are mostly used.



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Liqtech 240 @ Enermax – Long-Term Test Result

Liqtech 240 from Enermax #Enermax (EOL)

long-term results


I wasn´t sure about AIO-Watercooling Systems so i bought me a Liqtech 240 for the smaller Workstation. (FX8350) Price was around 100€ .

The installation wasn´t so bad, but the hose couplings broke by installation after 5 minutes. The hose was to stiff and inside the hose was a tiny plug that make´s sure that no water will leak out of it.  I wrote an email to the RMA here in Hamburg and after multiple minutes i got the answer.  So i send it to the RMA  and 3-4 days later i got a new one.

The MTBF says around 50K hours on the HW. Well not sure but true. Iám missing 5K hours.  I was wondering about the heat the last day´s and you know the AMD FX Series is a TPD Monster with 125W. The Fan´s gone crazy around 2500 RPM and the heat was rising up to emergency shutdown.  OK ?!

The big problem on almost all AIO Watercooling Systems is that you can´t have a look inside the pump or the level of fluid.

The pump is dead beef….. take a look yourself

Yeahhh rusti water……….

Take a spoon and take a nip.

Well the „water“ smells like somebody  need a quick pee


Well the Radiator and the fan´s are still OK, but the pump is dead.

Results :  Quick installation

                  Very bad hose connectors

                  Missing a fluid windows to check the level of fluid

                 Missing a pump status or fluid flow window

                 RMA is quick (for Germany) no problems at all

                 Bad fluid is used and too much dirt cause of „wrong“ fluid or bad mixture

                 Fan´s are very good

                 Good cooling effect almost 30°C ~ Summer max 40°C on  medium/heavy usage

                 Fittings no leak so far

                 Solid pump casing


If Enermax fix the fluid and the status of the pump 10/10 point´s

@ Enermax send a Sample for the next run 🙂



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How to burn your house down by Chinese Manufacturer and grab the money from the insurence

This 230V AC Adapter with USB 5V DC output can easy burn your house down.

They used a 0,25m² flex cable to transport the 230-240V AC.  What the fuuuuck.

You can see a missing capacitor on the top left. This Capacitor was made for 25V with 22µF.  It melted down by overcurrent. The big Transistor is a MJE13003 and not the best choice for 230V more for the United States of America with 110V. The tiny transformer is melted down too. There is no information about this tiny transformer, only that it stinks.

Generally this tiny transformer in cube design is dangerous for European . You have to put your fingers the half way inside the power socket and it is missing a Earth-Connection too.



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PC Floppy Drive to read Amiga Floppy Disk´s with Amiga DOS

PCB Design

First grab some fact´s that we need to know about a Floppy Drive.

As Sample I took a NEC FD1231H drive cause it is very often to get on Ebay or Second Hand Shop´s.  information’s can be found here.

NEC only give us 5/12V and 1/4W as comments. So we need around 300mA on 5V or  125mA for 12V.  There is no advice about the used Voltage… Does it needs 12V or just 5V or both? NEC says it requier´s min 5V.

The big Question is, das USB gives us enought current?

USB 1.X ~ 100mA max.

USB 2.X ~ 500mA max.

USB 3.X ~ 900mA max.

We need 2 external PCB´s, a Arduino Mini-Pro and a FTDI232 or a generic interface to get the Data from the Floppy. The Pro Mini takes around 200mA max.  The FTDI max rating´s are 24mA. But what about the Floppy if it´s in bad shape?

So best way is to use an external Power Supply 12V and 1A to be on the secure side.

You can order a PCB for few bug´s soon on ALLPCB.COM ,  you can plug and play put your hardware at home on the PCB and just need to connect the Floppy to it

A Bundle PCB with all needed part´s except the Floppy and Power Supply, can purchased soon. A Privat to Privat sale and not Commercial. Same for other PCB´s that you can get here too.

First Prototype arrived….

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